Rock climbing: Holyhead Mountain


I was over in Wales this weekend – I drove over on Friday eve and the rain in Llanberis that evening was some of the worst that I’ve seen this year, which is saying something given the amount that we’ve had up in the Lake District over the last few months. The campsite opposite the Vaynol Arms in Nant Peris was sodden.

After getting dry in the Vaynol and a rubbish night’s sleep due to the incessant noise of rain on the tent, I was disappointed to wake up to even more rain, wind and clag the following morning – the (always unlikely) plan to climb in The Pass was obviously not happening, so we all headed over to Tremadog, in the hope that things would be brighter over there, as they often are.

They were brighter, but not by much, but at least there was Eric Jones’ Cafe to get a nice breakfast and to remind ourselves how mere mortals we are compared to the man himself!

So back in the car it was, and over the coast and Gogarth, to see whether Holyhead Mountain was dry. As we got further west, the weather improved, and I found myself climbing on Holyhead Mountain in sunglasses with an unbroken view over the bay and back towards the (now clearing) mountains of Snowdonia.

We’d driven around so much that we only had time for a couple of routes – Tension VS 4b – pretty steep moves and positions for a VS, but loads of pro and big holds all the way; and Breaking the Barrier E1 5b which was thin and technical.

A great day on Welsh rock.

20120818  D7K2911 304x201 Rock climbing: Holyhead Mountain

King Bee Crack, Holyhead Mountain, HVS 5a

20120818  D7K2916 304x201 Rock climbing: Holyhead Mountain


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