Rock climbing: Moughton Nab, Yorkshire


Richard and I ran away east, hoping to find some dry rock over in Yorkshire. So, after a coffee in Clapham, we ended up checking out a limestone scar that neither of us had visited before – Moughton Nab, which is high above Dry Rigg Quarry, not far from Austwick.

Those of you clicking the link above, will see the comment that the “quality of the rock at the top of the crag is very poor and makes it difficult to make even a tenuous belay. Not worth the visit. – this is not really true at all, given that it’s 99% primarily a sport venue and as such the vast majority of the climbs are bolted – the tenuous belay bit quickly becomes irrelevant and in fact it’s a great spot for a quick fix of a few decent sport routes.

Granted, they are all a tad short (probs no more than 6 draws, with most being 4 or 5), but there are some great routes for the climber operating in the 6a to 6c range, most of them being quite steep and having a high crux which involves pulling through some kind of bulge or overlap.  It’s well worth a day of your time and Richard and I managed a good 7 routes before the inevitable rain started.

It’s worth nothing (and I’ll probably go to hell for this) that you could ‘maybe’ find a subtle way in to Foredale Quarry via the standard approaches to Moughton Nab. The route to the Nab that takes the right hand edge of the quarry (facing in to the crag) takes the shoulder above the normal Foredale route and there is a stile at the top, which I don’t mind betting would pretty much get you in to Foredale. For those who wonder why I’m going on about this, the access to Foredale is currently a no-no, due to some idiots causing problems with the farmer who owns the land that you need to cross to access the quarry.


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