Multi-pitch rock climbing: Llanberis Pass and Tremadog

 

I have been away for a couple of days with Mark, a fellow instructor from Ambleside for some multi-pitch rock climbing.

Mark is also a member of the Ceunant Mountaineering Club, which is pretty cool ’cause it meant he could sign me in to their posh hut, Tyn Lon, right next door to the Vaynol Arms, in Nant Peris. Normally I’m in the soggy field opposite in my tent – this was luxury!

Monday was a stinking hot day – I even reached for the suncream at one point! All in our sunglasses, we ticked Brant Direct on Clogwyn y Grochan which felt fair at HVS 5a – it reminded me (kind of) of Great North Road over at Millstone in the Peak District – probably only because it’s a steep groove/corner crack and involved some weird ‘technical bridging’ and bizarre moves which meant facing out of the crag, rather than in!

We also ticked the top two pitches of Brant (VS 4c), which seemed fair at the grade (soft 4c, but we didn’t do the first pitch which is probs where the 4c is). Finally, Neil and I climbed  Nea (VS 4b) (pretty steady for VS) and then mixed it up a bit by finishing up the final pitch of Spectre (HVS 5a).  This final pitch is a fight, and a tussle, and a thrutch – it’s a steep off-width crack that gives in to a bit of strenuous laybacking and some steep jamming.

I woke on Tuesday to rain, which didn’t help with the psych and almost turned in to a walk, until Neil tempted me to drive over to Tremadog to chase the sunshine. As often happens in North Wales, it actually was sunny there, so Neil and I ticked the Classic Rock line of Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), but felt a lot harder.

Anyway, job done and a great couple of days on dry (ish) rock.  Cheers chaps.

20120904  D7K3001 304x201 Multi pitch rock climbing: Llanberis Pass and Tremadog

Climbers on Craig y Castell (Tremadog) – Creagh Dhu Wall takes the featured wall & groove on the left

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Brant Direct HVS 5a

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