Rock climbing on Cornish granite


Last week I travelled down to the south west to meet Chris for come climbing on the abrasive, skin-shredding rock that is Cornish sea-cliff granite.

Chris and I headed over to Cornwall on Tuesday in torrential rain and very strong winds, but I was confident that the weather charts were right and the forecasts wrong and that good weather was on its way. I was right – the Gale Force 10 gusts died down during the evening and left clear skies and the potential for a great couple of days climbing. Chris and I based ourselves in a great campsite just outside St Just, with a bar on site serving fine local ales – I promised them a plug, so here it is:

Wednesday brought fine weather, but the winds were still quite strong. This didn’t phase us though and we climbed the classic Bosigran Ridge – an 8ish pitch alpine-like arête that rises out of the sea and gives what is cited as a ‘classic Cornish expedition’. Due to wild seas, we couldn’t make the starting belay ledge at sea level, so we picked a slightly harder line up one of the faces to bring us out somewhere around pitch 3.

The ridge is never hard – it’s Diff most of the way despite the given grade and there is plenty of protection from slings and hexes. It’s a traversing line with a fair bit of down-climbing which maintains interest all the way. The view over to the main Bosigran area and Great Zawn, along with the exposed positions on the ridge itself are worth the journey. A great day.

On Thursday the wind had died down, so Chris and I headed to Sennen to climb on the sea cliffs there. Despite a sign warning us of dangerous snakes and the cliffs being busy due to the BMC’s International Meet, we had a great afternoon on steep, juggy, high-friction rock with great views of Lands End.

A great trip and definitely a place I will return to for more exploration and climbing.

Thanks Chris.


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Chris on Bosigran Ridge

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As if climbing wasn’t dangerous enough on its own?!

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